18th Century womenswear

The 18th century was a long period of profound change in women's fashion in Europe.

As society evolved through enlightenment, revolution, and industrialisation, so too did the clothing that women wore, reflecting both the opulence of the aristocracy and the emerging practicalities of a changing world.

What was women's fashion in the early 1700s?

The early 1700s were characterised by opulent and grandiose styles, heavily influenced by the Baroque period.

The main components of women's fashion included robe de cour, a formal court dress with fitted bodice with a low, square neckline and a voluminous skirt supported by panniers (wide side hoops), and mantuas, informal gowns which turned into more formal attires by the early 18th century, open in the front to reveal a petticoat.

Stays - or, as they came to be called later, corsets - were also very important. Stays were early corsets, essential for achieving the desired silhouette, cinching the waist and supporting the bust, creating a conical shape. The garments were made in luxurious fabrics such as silk, satin, and brocade, and were adorned with lace, embroidery, and ribbons, emphasising wealth and status.

Accessories - such as fans, gloves, shoes, and jewellery - also played a central role in the definition of feminine elegance. Hairstyles were too considered a fashionable element: fontanges, a trend from France, were tall, elaborate headdresses made of lace and ribbons.

What was the Rococo influence on fashion?

As the century progressed, fashion became more playful, influenced by the Rococo art movement's emphasis on lightness and even more decoration.

Soft pastel colours and delicate floral patterns became popular, reflecting the whimsical and romantic aesthetics of the Rococo period. France maintained its role as ‘maker’ of fashion, and the robe à la française, or sack-back gown, featuring a loose back pleated from the shoulders and fitted front bodice, was the most popular garment at this time. The skirts were wide, supported by panniers, and often had layered petticoats.

Hair was styled higher, often adorned with ribbons, flowers, and feathers and white powdered wigs and even more elaborate hairstyles became fashionable, complemented by make up to obtain pale complexion, thanks to powders, and of course, beauty patches.

How did fashion change in the 18th century?

The latter part of the 18th century saw dramatic shifts in fashion, influenced by Enlightenment ideals and revolutionary fervour, leading to more simplified and practical fashions.

The robe à l'anglaise, or English gown, with a fitted bodice with a full skirt that was less voluminous than earlier styles, became the norm. It was practical and elegant, often made from printed cotton.

Another interesting style was the chemise à la Reine, apparently popularised by Marie Antoinette, a simple chemise made of white muslin, symbolising a move towards naturalism and simplicity.

Other styles became popular around the 1770s and 1780s.

The robe à la polonaise was light and informal dress with a fitted anglaise back and a skirt that can be drawn up on interior tapes into swags. It took its name from Queen Maria Leczinska, who was married to Louis XV. The robe à la Turque was a dress with long sleeves and the upper skirts (or manteau) of a different colour than the petticoat, sleeves and bodice/corsage, often worn with a sash around the waist.

Towards the French Revolution (1789-1799) especially, hairstyles became simpler, with less powdered hair and more natural looks, often adorned with modest accessories like ribbons or small caps. The French Revolution then brought a decline in extravagant fashion. Simpler, more practical clothing became the norm, influenced by the ideals purported by the revolutionaries.

In this quick trip through 18th century feminine fashions, it is clear that the period witnessed dynamic change in women's fashion, from the grandeur of early Baroque styles to the playful Rococo and the practical simplicity inspired by revolutionary ideals. Each phase reflected broader societal shifts, encapsulating the spirit of the times.