Tea from China

According to legend, tea was discovered when leaves fell off a tree in a pot of boiling water. The beneficial potion resulting from this coincidental collision was tasted and endorsed by Shennong: a mythological ruler nicknamed ‘The Divine Farmer’.

For millennia, tea was consumed as a medicinal beverage, before it became a social drink and a staple of the daily diet. At that point, around the 3rd century CE, tea cultivation really took off. The intricate process of producing and preparing tea became the pinnacle of Chinese inventiveness and finesse.

After harvest, leaves have to be wilted, oxidized and fermented, fixed, rolled, dried and - in some cases - left alone to age for years.

Then sorting and grading, sifting and breaking, packing and sealing the tea conclude the process.

A plethora of guides and methods describing the intricacies of cultivating tea have been published throughout the centuries, both in and outside of China. Many travellers to China applied themselves to studying Chinese strategies and techniques, to later report on them in extensive publications.

For many photographers too, the elaborate process and almost ritual handlings needed to produce tea have proven to be a lasting source of fascination and inspiration.

From cup to pot

As tea cultivation, preparation and consumption became part of a refined and formal ceremony with a social as well as a spiritual dimension, the need arose to switch from individual tea cups to larger pots in which the drink could be prepared. In the Song era (960–1279) a special pot used for brewing tea is mentioned for the first time.

From the 16th century onwards potters from the Jiangsu province used their local clay to produce dedicated brewing pots. The reddish earthenware of the Yixing teapot has an exquisite texture and pots tend to grow more characterful with long-term use.

The small format, short spouts and clay material make these teapots stand out from the porcelain, long-spouted vessels later created in China for export to the West, where tea was brewed and consumed in a different way.

Vessels specially made for storing tea became a necessity too. Tea needs to be kept in a dark space, ideally in an airtight container, preventing the aromas from diffusing and protecting the costly product from harmful exposure to moisture or dampness.

Boost for body and soul

Classified on the basis of provenance, the type of tea plant used, the ratio of large tea leaves versus smaller, broken grades, and the manufacturing process, tea today comes in a plethora of forms, strengths and tastes.

Green tea, with its typical pale colour palette, lemony taste and slightly bitter zing still is mainly grown in China, as are the more smoky flavoured oolong and pouchong teas produced in the south.

Green tea in particular is a worldwide favorite of the health-conscious, as it is rich in natural antioxidants, contains caffeine as a booster and fluoride against caries. Furthermore, having tea is associated with stress relief and mindfulness. With its spiritual and physical health benefits tea continues to be at the very top of the leaderboard of most popular drinks in the world.

Ceremony & culture

In China, ‘gongfu’ is the designation used for a particular tea brewing ceremony that aims at making tea ‘with skill’, so that it not only tastes good but also benefits the soul. By using a relatively high amount of leaves the brewer instigates a process that involves multiple infusions, each producing slightly different intensities and taste experiences.

Because of the symbolic aspect of preparing, sharing and consuming tea, it’s good to think before you sip: in Argentina you’ll insult your brewer by stirring your cup with the bombilla, while when Touareg tea is served you might be surprised by the panache with which it’s poured from great height.

In Russia, tea isn’t consumed with meals but during dedicated breaks. To prepare the brew, a samovar is used: a special device producing the strong-flavored ‘zavarka’.

While brewing as well as enjoying tea entail different ceremonial practices in different parts of the world, most cultures regard the offering of tea as a gesture of hospitality and politeness.

A global phenomenon

China tea reached mainland Europe with the Dutch East India Company early in the 17th century, followed by the English East India Company importing tea to London.

By the dawn of the 20th century, the whole world was sipping the aromatic beverage, from Kenya and Queensland to Russia and Peru.

What people’s ‘cup of tea’ entails exactly, differs from country to country: enjoyed with a lump of sugar by some, others will add honey or lemon, yak butter or condensed milk, mint leaves, cinnamon or tapioca balls.

So how do you prefer your cup of wonder…?

This blog post is a part of the PAGODE project, which explores Chinese cultural heritage in Europe.